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Sizing and lasts for export footwear programmes

A size run is a grading decision made once on the last, and getting it wrong shows up as returns rather than as complaints.

A last is the form the shoe is built around, and the fit of every size in a run is derived from it by grading. Grading is not simple scaling: length, girth and heel width change at different rates, which is why a shoe that fits perfectly at size 42 can be tight at 45.

Export programmes add a second problem: the same nominal size means different things in European, UK, US and Japanese systems, and a conversion table is only an approximation. State the market before the last is finalised, because it is much cheaper to grade to a market than to convert afterwards.

Fit corrections are made on the sample and then re-graded across the run before production opens. Correcting fit after a run has been graded means regrading, which is a tooling-level change rather than an adjustment.

Specifications

GradingLength, girth and heel width change at different rates
State earlyWhich sizing system the market uses
Fit correctionsOn the sample, then re-graded before production

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